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The Aesthetics Edit

Welcome to The Aesthetics Edit™ - our award-winning educational platform at the intersection of art, beauty, medicine and science.


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Beef Tallow Skincare: A Doctor Renders Down the Hype
Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley

Beef Tallow Skincare: A Doctor Renders Down the Hype

TikTok would like you to smear rendered beef fat on your face — for glowing, "ancestral," chemical-free skin. As ever, the truth is more boring and more useful than either the evangelists or the eye-rollers will tell you. So let me render it down: what tallow genuinely does, what it absolutely doesn't, and whether you should slather it on.

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The Paraben Panic: How a Health Scare Made Your Skincare Less Safe
Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley

The Paraben Panic: How a Health Scare Made Your Skincare Less Safe

"Paraben-free" is one of the most successful marketing phrases in beauty history. It's also a cautionary tale. The campaign against a cheap, well-tested, genuinely safe preservative didn't make your skincare cleaner — it handed you more allergies and more contamination, and charged you extra for the privilege.

Here's how one flimsy study in 2004 rewrote the back of every bottle you own — and why fear is a terrible way to choose skincare.

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Sephora Kids: What Anti-Ageing Skincare Is Doing to Children
Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley

Sephora Kids: What Anti-Ageing Skincare Is Doing to Children

Because the customer has changed. It's no longer sixteen-year-olds with spots. It's ten-year-olds — sometimes seven-year-olds — clutching £68 serums, filming elaborate multi-step routines for TikTok, and using potent anti-ageing ingredients on skin that is, developmentally, a baby's.

We've started calling them "Sephora kids," and it would be amusing if it weren't so harmful.

Let me explain what's actually going on, and — crucially — what the new evidence shows.

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The Morning Shed: Should You Be Sleepmaxxing Your Skin?
Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley

The Morning Shed: Should You Be Sleepmaxxing Your Skin?

If you have spent any time on TikTok lately, you will have met the "morning shed." The premise is simple and strangely satisfying: you go to bed looking like a mummy — layered in serums, an occlusive mask, under-eye patches, a chin strap, a silk bonnet, perhaps a strip of tape across your mouth — and you wake up to peel it all away, revealing skin that is supposedly luminous, lifted and years younger. It is the latest chapter in "sleepmaxxing," the wider trend of optimising every hour of sleep for health and beauty.

I understand the appeal. There is something deeply reassuring about the idea that we can work on ourselves while we do nothing at all.

But as with so many viral rituals, the question I care about is not whether it looks impressive on camera. It is whether it is doing anything, and whether it is safe.

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No, Your Sunscreen Isn't Poisoning You: Untangling the Great SPF Panic
Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley

No, Your Sunscreen Isn't Poisoning You: Untangling the Great SPF Panic

A growing corner of the internet has decided that sunscreen — not the sun — is the real villain. As a doctor who spends a fair amount of her week looking at sun-damaged skin, I'd like to take that idea apart.

Here's what the actual science says about chemical filters, "hormone disruption," coral reefs, benzene and the rest — and the one thing the skeptics are genuinely, annoyingly, a little bit right about.

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Skincare Acids You’ve Never Heard Of
Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley

Skincare Acids You’ve Never Heard Of

When it comes to skincare, acids have long been the stars of the show—think glycolic, salicylic, and hyaluronic acids. These tried-and-tested ingredients have earned their reputation for addressing common skin concerns such as acne, wrinkles, and dryness.

But did you know there are lesser-known acids that are starting to make their mark in the skincare world? While some have been used for centuries, others are still emerging in research. In this blog, we’ll introduce you to some skincare acids you may have never heard of, discuss their potential benefits, and help you decide whether they should make their way into your routine.

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Cosmetics in the Ancient World
Medical History, Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley Medical History, Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley

Cosmetics in the Ancient World

Discover the fascinating history of cosmetics in the ancient world, from the protective oils and dramatic kohl eyeliner of ancient Egypt to the henna artistry of India and the lead-based beauty trends of Greece and Rome.

Explore how these early beauty practices shaped cultural identity, social status, and spiritual rituals, laying the foundation for modern beauty standards.

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What is Happening with the EU’s New “Ban” on Retinol?
Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley

What is Happening with the EU’s New “Ban” on Retinol?

You might have seen it all over the media recently - the EU is apparently banning retinol?! What is going on?

Well don't panic - retinol isn't disappearing completely! Instead, there are new rules that are going to regulate its percentages in cosmetic, over-the-counter products - and this does not apply to the use of these vitamin A derivatives (prescription retinoids) by healthcare professionals.

So let’s explore what’s happening.

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Island Glow: Skincare in the Caribbean
Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley

Island Glow: Skincare in the Caribbean

Hello from the Cayman Islands!

As a cosmetic doctor new to these stunning shores, I've been captivated not only by the breathtaking beauty of the islands, but also by the rich traditions of natural skincare deeply rooted in Caribbean culture.

This stunning, lush landscape offers an abundance of treasures that have been nurturing skin for generations.

Let's dive into some of the time-tested ingredients that contribute to that radiant "island glow."

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How Do Skincare Ingredients Penetrate into Your Skin?
Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley

How Do Skincare Ingredients Penetrate into Your Skin?

Attention all skincare enthusiasts! It's time to find out what really goes on with those creams, serums, and lotions that we slather onto our faces every day. Did you know that not all skincare ingredients can penetrate your skin? And that that you don’t always want them to?

Let’s do a little dive into the science behind your skincare.

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What are Neurocosmetics?
Psychology, Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley Psychology, Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley

What are Neurocosmetics?

The concept of neurocosmetics represents a fascinating convergence of neuroscience and skincare, marking a significant shift in how we perceive beauty and wellness. This emerging field, also known as psychodermatology, delves into the intricate relationship between the skin and the nervous system.

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Teenagers and Skincare
Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley

Teenagers and Skincare

Tweens and teenagers are diving headfirst into the skincare scene. They’re flocking to beauty counters with their enthusiasm for elaborate 10-step routines once reserved for adults. But behind the glossy facade of 'Sephora kids' and their viral TikTok skincare sagas lies a problem.

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Beyond the Basics: Shining a Light on Lesser-Known Skincare Ingredients
Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley

Beyond the Basics: Shining a Light on Lesser-Known Skincare Ingredients

You’ve heard of your hyaluronic acid, your Vitamin Cs, and of course your retinoids. But there are a wealth of other skincare ingredients out there. Today, we’re going to highlight some of the lesser-know ingredients in skincare, including lactobionic acid, hypochlorous acid, pyruvic acid, ferulic acid, and phytic acid.

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What is Skin Flooding?
Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley

What is Skin Flooding?

If you’re interested in skincare, you have to acknowledge the power of a TikTok trend. Let’s be honest, TikTok is a mixed bag of good, bad, and terrible advice, but if you want to keep up-to-date on what’s happening in skincare you will see it first on social media.

The latest trend is called “skin flooding,” and it is all about hydration, hydration, hydration.

Let’s explore.

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