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The Aesthetics Edit

Welcome to The Aesthetics Edit™ - our educational platform at the intersection of art, beauty, medicine and science.


Explore by category and read our latest articles below,

or see a full list of all of our pieces here

 

Latest articles

The Chamber of Horrors: When Cosmetics Really Were Dangerous
Medical History Dr Emmaline Ashley Medical History Dr Emmaline Ashley

The Chamber of Horrors: When Cosmetics Really Were Dangerous

In 1933, a shocking exhibit toured America, displaying products that had blinded women, caused permanent hair loss, and even killed unsuspecting consumers. The "American Chamber of Horrors," as it came to be known, featured genuinely toxic cosmetic products, that contrast sharply with how remarkably safe modern products actually are.

Yet somehow, in our era cosmetic safety and regulation, we've developed an irrational fear of "chemicals" and "toxins" in beauty products. The irony is striking: we've never been safer from cosmetic harm, yet we've never been more frightened of our makeup bags.

Let's explore how the real horrors of unregulated cosmetics led to the robust safety framework we have today - and why most modern "clean beauty" fears fundamentally misunderstand how cosmetic regulation actually works.

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The Dark Origins of Retin-A: How Prison Experiments Led to Modern Anti-Ageing Treatment
Medical History Dr Emmaline Ashley Medical History Dr Emmaline Ashley

The Dark Origins of Retin-A: How Prison Experiments Led to Modern Anti-Ageing Treatment

Some of the most groundbreaking discoveries in medicine happen completely by accident. From penicillin to X-rays, chance has shaped modern healthcare in ways we could never have planned. But perhaps no accidental discovery has had quite the same impact on dermatology and aesthetics as the revelation that a powerful acne treatment could turn back the clock on ageing skin.

Let explore the story of how tretinoin - also known as Retin-A - went from being a treatment for severe acne to becoming the gold standard in anti-ageing skincare. Because, as we shall see, behind this revolutionary treatment lies one of dermatology's darkest chapters.

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The Lipstick Law That Never Was: The Myth of Deceptive Beauty
Medical History Dr Emmaline Ashley Medical History Dr Emmaline Ashley

The Lipstick Law That Never Was: The Myth of Deceptive Beauty

In the colourful history of cosmetics, few stories have taken on such a life of their own as the so-called Lipstick Ban of 1770. Allegedly passed by the British Parliament, this infamous “act” decreed that any woman who used makeup to deceive a man into marriage could be tried for witchcraft, and that the marriage would be rendered null and void.

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The Paraffin Pioneer: A 1904 Case of Facial Atrophy and the Birth of Cosmetic Fillers
Medical History Dr Emmaline Ashley Medical History Dr Emmaline Ashley

The Paraffin Pioneer: A 1904 Case of Facial Atrophy and the Birth of Cosmetic Fillers

Over a century ago, one fascinating case marked the dawn of cosmetic intervention as we know it today — and it involved paraffin wax.

In 1904, Dr. Benjamin T. Burley published a case report in the Boston Medical and Surgical Journal detailing the use of paraffin injections to restore facial volume in a young woman suffering from bilateral facial atrophy.

This is more than just a curious footnote in the history of injectables — it’s a reminder of the human drive for aesthetic restoration, the early efforts to balance safety with innovation, and the long road we’ve walked from paraffin to the safe use of hyaluronic acid fillers today.

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Cosmetics in the Ancient World
Medical History, Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley Medical History, Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley

Cosmetics in the Ancient World

Discover the fascinating history of cosmetics in the ancient world, from the protective oils and dramatic kohl eyeliner of ancient Egypt to the henna artistry of India and the lead-based beauty trends of Greece and Rome.

Explore how these early beauty practices shaped cultural identity, social status, and spiritual rituals, laying the foundation for modern beauty standards.

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Madam C.J. Walker
Medical History Dr Emmaline Ashley Medical History Dr Emmaline Ashley

Madam C.J. Walker


We all know I love a little bit of medical history - but I thought I would change it up a little in this article and focus on a pioneering woman in beauty history.


In the late 19th century, Sarah Breedlove—later known as Madam C.J. Walker—emerged as the first self-made female millionaire. The first child in her family born into freedom after the Emancipation Proclamation, Sarah’s early years were steeped in adversity. Yet, from these humble beginnings, she rose to become an emblem of resilience, ingenuity, and empowerment for African American women across the nation.

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The History of Lasers
Medical History, Lasers Dr Emmaline Ashley Medical History, Lasers Dr Emmaline Ashley

The History of Lasers

Ever wondered how lasers went from a sci-fi fantasy to an everyday reality in medicine and beauty? Let's dive into an incredible journey from their theoretical beginnings to the cutting-edge technology we use today. Swipe through to uncover the fascinating story of lasers and how they’ve transformed the world of dermatology and beyond. It's time to shine a light on the past, present, and future of lasers.

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The Original Facial Sculptor
Medical History Dr Emmaline Ashley Medical History Dr Emmaline Ashley

The Original Facial Sculptor

In the depths of World War I's brutality, where the relentless fury of warfare left countless soldiers disfigured and shattered, one woman emerged as a the original facial sculptor.


Anna Coleman Ladd, an extraordinary artist, dedicated her life transforming the lives of countless soldiers. She created intricately detailed facial masks, allowing them to regain their identities and reclaim their place in society.


In this article, we delve into the inspiring tale of Anna Coleman Ladd, whose artistry sculpted not just faces but also a profound legacy of resilience and compassion.

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The Guinea Pig Club
Medical History, Plastic Surgery Dr Emmaline Ashley Medical History, Plastic Surgery Dr Emmaline Ashley

The Guinea Pig Club

There are so many incredible stories in medical history, especially when it comes to plastic surgery and cosmetic medicine. As I’ve discussed previously, the origin of a lot of aesthetic medical techniques come from the horrific injuries sustained during the World Wars and the innovation and brilliance of the clinicians who tried to treat them.


One of my favourite stories is about the Guinea Pig Club.

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Deadly Beauty: The History of Radiation in Cosmetic Medicine
Medical History Dr Emmaline Ashley Medical History Dr Emmaline Ashley

Deadly Beauty: The History of Radiation in Cosmetic Medicine

Sometimes when we look back in the history of cosmetic medicine, we can appreciate how far we have really come. In the early 20th century amazing scientific discoveries were made - but how dangerous they could be was not always fully appreciated at the time. One classic example of this was the use of radiation in aesthetic medicine - a deadly beauty trend with mortal consequences.

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A Brief History of Sunscreen
Medical History Dr Emmaline Ashley Medical History Dr Emmaline Ashley

A Brief History of Sunscreen

Sunscreen has a long and rich history, dating back thousands of years to ancient civilizations. While we have perfected it in the 21st century and innovations are ongoing, protecting your skin has never been a new thing.


Let’s take a whirlwind tour through this fascinating topic!

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The Spies who Underwent Plastic Surgery
Medical History, Plastic Surgery Dr Emmaline Ashley Medical History, Plastic Surgery Dr Emmaline Ashley

The Spies who Underwent Plastic Surgery

t sounds like something out of a Hollywood film, but it really did happen! In the shadowy world of wartime espionage, an elite group of spies and secret group of plastic surgeons worked together to sculpt new faces and new identities during World War II.


Recently de-classified documents from Britain’s Special Operations Executive (SOE) have revealed this fascinating chapter in medical history.

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Madame Anna Ruppert: The Beauty Doctor’s Dangerous Legacy
Medical History Dr Emmaline Ashley Medical History Dr Emmaline Ashley

Madame Anna Ruppert: The Beauty Doctor’s Dangerous Legacy

The story of Madame Anna Ruppert is a fascinating one. She was clearly an enterprising and ambitious woman, but one who did not let her lack of medical training get in the way of selling beauty to others. For a brief time she reached dizzying heights of fame and renown, lecturing to sold out crowds (an unheard of feat for most women of the time), enduring attempts on her life via poisoning, and finally ending her career exposed as a fraud.

She is a fascinating and complex woman - clearly someone ahead of her time and determined to forge her own way in the world. But she has also left behind a dangerous legacy, one that is echoed in the current landscape of the UK aesthetics world today.

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“Fox Eyes:” My Eyes Are Not Your Beauty Trend
Aesthetic Medicine, Medical History Dr Emmaline Ashley Aesthetic Medicine, Medical History Dr Emmaline Ashley

“Fox Eyes:” My Eyes Are Not Your Beauty Trend

The first second I saw #foxeye trending, an instant little curl of disgust went through me. Whether it was through posing, make-up, or thread lifts, I was bombarded with image after image of mostly white women pulling up and slanting their eyes as if it were a fashion statement.

Some of my earliest memories from school are of fellow students pulling up their eyes in the same gesture towards me - this time not as a beauty trend but as a taunt and insult.

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