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The Aesthetics Edit

Welcome to The Aesthetics Edit™ - our award-winning educational platform at the intersection of art, beauty, medicine and science.


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Beef Tallow Skincare: A Doctor Renders Down the Hype
Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley

Beef Tallow Skincare: A Doctor Renders Down the Hype

TikTok would like you to smear rendered beef fat on your face — for glowing, "ancestral," chemical-free skin. As ever, the truth is more boring and more useful than either the evangelists or the eye-rollers will tell you. So let me render it down: what tallow genuinely does, what it absolutely doesn't, and whether you should slather it on.

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Sephora Kids: What Anti-Ageing Skincare Is Doing to Children
Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley

Sephora Kids: What Anti-Ageing Skincare Is Doing to Children

Because the customer has changed. It's no longer sixteen-year-olds with spots. It's ten-year-olds — sometimes seven-year-olds — clutching £68 serums, filming elaborate multi-step routines for TikTok, and using potent anti-ageing ingredients on skin that is, developmentally, a baby's.

We've started calling them "Sephora kids," and it would be amusing if it weren't so harmful.

Let me explain what's actually going on, and — crucially — what the new evidence shows.

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The Morning Shed: Should You Be Sleepmaxxing Your Skin?
Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley

The Morning Shed: Should You Be Sleepmaxxing Your Skin?

If you have spent any time on TikTok lately, you will have met the "morning shed." The premise is simple and strangely satisfying: you go to bed looking like a mummy — layered in serums, an occlusive mask, under-eye patches, a chin strap, a silk bonnet, perhaps a strip of tape across your mouth — and you wake up to peel it all away, revealing skin that is supposedly luminous, lifted and years younger. It is the latest chapter in "sleepmaxxing," the wider trend of optimising every hour of sleep for health and beauty.

I understand the appeal. There is something deeply reassuring about the idea that we can work on ourselves while we do nothing at all.

But as with so many viral rituals, the question I care about is not whether it looks impressive on camera. It is whether it is doing anything, and whether it is safe.

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Cosmetics in the Ancient World
Medical History, Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley Medical History, Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley

Cosmetics in the Ancient World

Discover the fascinating history of cosmetics in the ancient world, from the protective oils and dramatic kohl eyeliner of ancient Egypt to the henna artistry of India and the lead-based beauty trends of Greece and Rome.

Explore how these early beauty practices shaped cultural identity, social status, and spiritual rituals, laying the foundation for modern beauty standards.

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What is Happening with the EU’s New “Ban” on Retinol?
Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley

What is Happening with the EU’s New “Ban” on Retinol?

You might have seen it all over the media recently - the EU is apparently banning retinol?! What is going on?

Well don't panic - retinol isn't disappearing completely! Instead, there are new rules that are going to regulate its percentages in cosmetic, over-the-counter products - and this does not apply to the use of these vitamin A derivatives (prescription retinoids) by healthcare professionals.

So let’s explore what’s happening.

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How Do Skincare Ingredients Penetrate into Your Skin?
Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley

How Do Skincare Ingredients Penetrate into Your Skin?

Attention all skincare enthusiasts! It's time to find out what really goes on with those creams, serums, and lotions that we slather onto our faces every day. Did you know that not all skincare ingredients can penetrate your skin? And that that you don’t always want them to?

Let’s do a little dive into the science behind your skincare.

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The Best Over-the-Counter Skincare Products of 2022
Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley Skincare Science Dr Emmaline Ashley

The Best Over-the-Counter Skincare Products of 2022

When it comes to skincare there are so many amazing products out there. While I definitely stand behind the medical-grade skincare products I recommend and use, remember “medical-grade” is a marketing term not a legal definition. We all have different budgets and skincare needs. You can get some amazing products OTC, at your local Boots or off Amazon!

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